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Vintage Revival
Swimwear

Two models in doorway wearing vintage-inspired swimwear

How it started

This project began with my obsession with 1960s fashion. Through research and my own personal shopping dilemmas I have found that most modern swimwear lives at two extremes: too revealing or too modest. My project is about finding the balance; swimwear that's flattering, functional and just the right amount of sexy. Made from woven polyester combined with bold prints, and structured silhouettes, they feel like vintage but function like new.

How might we re-capture the charm of 1960's swimwear using modern materials?

Mood Board

I wanted to capture a fun, feminine vibe with soft pinks, and greens. While also incorporating classic 60s patterns like stripes, and plaid. I also knew I wanted to include buttons as well.

Mood board

User Persona - Meet Lucy

Lucy — user persona portrait
Age:
25
Gender:
Female
Occupation:
Graphic Designer, $45–65K/yr
Location:
San Diego, CA

Lifestyle

  • Flea markets and thrifting
  • Always on road trips
  • Active in local arts communities
  • Supports slow fashion and small businesses
  • Always crafting and upcycling

Style

Loves vintage, classic, flattering, timeless.

User Demands

My customer prioritizes style and quality above all else. While comfort is important, they are willing to sacrifice a degree of ease in order to achieve a strong aesthetic. They seek garments that find the right balance of self-expression, and modesty.

Close-up of vintage-style swimwear details Model with sunglasses in the water

Vintage vs Modern

Vintage swimwear lacks modern performance standards. Modern swimwear lacks timeless charm.

1960s vintage swimwear ad Vintage black and white swimwear

Vintage

Pros

  • Structured, flattering
  • Tasteful amount of coverage
  • Prints and patterns are creative and stylish
  • Personality

Cons

  • Cotton fabric causes chafing when wet
  • Fades in sun and chlorine
  • Hard to find in good condition
  • Expensive
Modern pink bikini Modern floral swimwear Modern leopard print swimwear

Modern

Pros

  • Won't bleach in sun or chlorine
  • Won't cause chafing, holds to the body
  • Many popular brands

Cons

  • Either oversexualized or childish
  • Minimal prints
  • Material loses elasticity and sags over time
  • No structure
  • Expensive
  • Trend driven

Current Market

In today's swimwear market, my target consumers are generally limited to five categories:

Secondhand vintage swimwear

Secondhand Vintage

Brand:
Ebay
Like Brands:
Depop, Poshmark, Etsy
Price:
$85
Material:
Cotton blend (unknown)
Problems:
Wear from previous use, functionally out of date
Modern bikini

Modern

Brand:
Frankies Bikinis
Like Brands:
Triangl, Blackbough swim, Skims
Price:
$95 top, $100 bottoms
Material:
94% Nylon, 6% Spandex
Problems:
Oversexualized, expensive for little design.
Modest modern swimwear

Modest Modern

Brand:
LimeRiki
Like Brands:
Jessica Ray, Albion, Kortni Jeane
Price:
$87
Material:
80% nylon, 20% spandex
Problems:
Childish patterns, unflattering silhouettes.
Modern retro one-piece

Modern Retro

Brand:
Retro-stage
Like Brands:
ModCloth
Price:
$30
Material:
82% Nylon, 18% Spandex
Problems:
Feels costume-like, cheap construction.
Vintage influences swimwear

Vintage Influences

Brand:
Oddli
Like Brands:
PrAna
Price:
$83 top, $83 bottoms
Material:
80% recycled nylon and 20% spandex
Problems:
Great, still lacks certain vintage elements like structure

Material Research

After analyzing cotton, nylon and polyester materials, I explored board short fabric to see if its reduced stretch and water performance properties could recreate the structured vintage look.

Vintage cotton one-piece

Cotton
(Vintage)

Pros

  • Soft and breathable
  • Keeps vintage look
  • Prints and colors great

Cons

  • Absorbs water
  • Poor chlorine and UV resistance
  • Can rub/chafe when wet
  • Wears fast
Authentic but impractical for modern swim use
Modern nylon bikini top

Nylon/Polyester
(Modern)

Pros

  • Lightweight
  • Fast drying
  • Chlorine and UV resistant
  • Flexible and athletic
  • Durable

Cons

  • Slick and modern feel
  • Lacks structure and vintage look
  • Elastic can wear out and sag
High performance, but doesn't meet aesthetic goals
Boardshort material reference

Board Short
(Swim Trunks)

Pros

  • Structured
  • Durable
  • Fast drying
  • Chlorine and UV resistant
  • Structure and vintage look

Cons

  • Requires thoughtful patterning for fit
  • Rarely used in women's swimwear
Best balance of structure, durability, and aesthetic

Design Research

1960's swimwear examples that inspired my exploration of silhouettes and prints:

Design research

Ideation

I sketched multiple concepts based on the 6 main vintage elements I pointed out above. 1) low waisted bottoms, 2) structured pointy darts, 3) boy-short bottoms 4) sweetheart/v-shaped neckline, 5) buttons, 6) print/pattern placement.

Pencil sketches of swimwear designs Pencil illustration of swimwear design Detailed swimwear design sketches with annotations

Tech Flat and Pattern

Final tech flat drawing and design
Butterick vintage sewing pattern

This is my final tech flat drawing and design.

To test the boardshort material, I looked for a real vintage sewing pattern that looked close enough to my design. I found this 60's Butterick pattern on Etsy.

Material Testing

I thrifted two pairs of mens swim trunks to cut up and sew into a first prototype.

This material was actually not too hard to work with and it totally has the structure of a vintage swimsuit while also being chlorine and UV resistant.

Boardshort source material with dolphin print Cut fabric pieces for swimwear Testing the boardshort material bikini top

Material Sourcing

I found a fabric company located in Sandy Utah called Raspberry Creek Fabrics that has many print options for board short material.

Material: 3.8 oz %100 polyester sueded microfiber

Going along with the my mood board and print inspiration, I picked out a pink plaid, a green and yellow vertical striped print, a blue/purple/green striped print, an off-white and another vertical striped fabric. I planned on making three suits to show the final vision.

Pink plaid boardshort fabric Green and yellow striped boardshort fabric Off-white boardshort fabric Blue and purple striped cotton bed sheet fabric

Process

One thing I struggled with throughout this process was making these suits adjustable. Because boardshort material has very little stretch I had to tailor them each to fit almost perfectly.

Sewing the swimwear Butterick pattern with fabric and measuring tape

Alterations and Adjustments

Alterations and adjustments detail

Pattern Alterations:

  • I added a button flap on the front of the bottoms to match my design better instead of using the intended invisible zipper.
  • I also rearranged the buttons on the back of the top.
  • I had to adjust the cut of the neck line and the under arms, because it went up in to the armpits too much.

Future Changes:

If I did this again I would add elastic in the waist and the leg holes as well as the under bust and straps. I think this would be a much better solution for allowing them different bodies without having to fit perfectly. Mostly because the fabric isn't super stretchy.

Tops pattern Bottoms pattern

Final Product

Final product artwork 1 Final product artwork 2 Final product artwork 4

Photo Shoot

Photography by Lola Probasco and Abbey Gibbs
Models: Ava Probasco, Lola Probasco and Abbey Gibbs
Location: Pinecrest Lake, Strawberry CA